Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth - Advances in Fluid Mechanics S. v.10 (Hardback)J. Hunt (editor)
Hardback 336 Pages / Published: 31/01/1997
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This text reviews recent work on understanding the processes by which ocean waves are transformed as they advance towards the shore. The topics covered include both linear and non-linear theories of wave modification by bottom topography, the interaction of waves with tidal and other currents, trapping of wave energy in the vicinity of particular topographical features, and sediment transport by which waves alter the bed profile. Attention is focused on the nearshore region, seaward of the surf zone.
Publisher: WIT Press
Number of pages: 336
Dimensions: 216 x 138 mm
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